Before departing the area, we walked along an almost-deserted Central Beach on a spectacularly sunny blue sky day, marred only by a large cooling tower to our east.
We skirted Chicago on I-94 and I-90, continually interrupted by 80¢ toll stops. Around Rockford, IL, we left the Interstates and followed US 20. A little before noon we arrived at Freeport, IL, just in time for a maple nut milkshake for me and a coconut joy cone for Susie, at the Union Dairy. We learned of this fantastic place in a book Torey had given Susie several years ago, “Road Trip USA.” It features particularly interesting stops along several non-Interstate routes across the country. I’m using it as a Bible this trip and, if this place is any indication, we’re on the right track. The café/ice cream shop is a throwback, but not obnoxiously, intentionally so. Between the place and the unusually modern and large library, where we also stopped, lies a small park commemorating the site of the second Lincoln-Douglas debate in 1856. Susie bought a book from their used book cart.
A little later we entered an incredibly beautiful region of rolling hills and immaculate farms, reminding Susie of Germany and Switzerland. US 20 generally travels along the ridges, providing panoramic views on both sides. This is our first glimpse of The Driftless Region, an area where no glaciers leveled out the land, leaving surprisingly high hills and deep valleys.
Mid-afternoon we stopped in Galena, IL, once larger than Chicago or Minneapolis. Once a wealthy town based on nearby lead deposits, it sat nearly vacant for many years until its many Victorian homes and commercial buildings were lovingly restored. Nestled among steep hills along a river, the town contains dozens of antique shops, wine bars, restaurants, and the like, all lining a curved main street with floodgates at one end. For several hours we browsed the shops, topped off by some wine and cheese at Jamie’s.
We camped at Mississippi Palisades State Park near the Mississippi River in Illinois ($10). We
had a large totally private site but Susie had to wash mulberries off our table. An unbelievable number of birds serenaded us the entire time. Just before sunset, we drove up to the several lockouts above the River for dramatic views of the Mighty Mississippi.
We skirted Chicago on I-94 and I-90, continually interrupted by 80¢ toll stops. Around Rockford, IL, we left the Interstates and followed US 20. A little before noon we arrived at Freeport, IL, just in time for a maple nut milkshake for me and a coconut joy cone for Susie, at the Union Dairy. We learned of this fantastic place in a book Torey had given Susie several years ago, “Road Trip USA.” It features particularly interesting stops along several non-Interstate routes across the country. I’m using it as a Bible this trip and, if this place is any indication, we’re on the right track. The café/ice cream shop is a throwback, but not obnoxiously, intentionally so. Between the place and the unusually modern and large library, where we also stopped, lies a small park commemorating the site of the second Lincoln-Douglas debate in 1856. Susie bought a book from their used book cart.
A little later we entered an incredibly beautiful region of rolling hills and immaculate farms, reminding Susie of Germany and Switzerland. US 20 generally travels along the ridges, providing panoramic views on both sides. This is our first glimpse of The Driftless Region, an area where no glaciers leveled out the land, leaving surprisingly high hills and deep valleys.
Mid-afternoon we stopped in Galena, IL, once larger than Chicago or Minneapolis. Once a wealthy town based on nearby lead deposits, it sat nearly vacant for many years until its many Victorian homes and commercial buildings were lovingly restored. Nestled among steep hills along a river, the town contains dozens of antique shops, wine bars, restaurants, and the like, all lining a curved main street with floodgates at one end. For several hours we browsed the shops, topped off by some wine and cheese at Jamie’s.
We camped at Mississippi Palisades State Park near the Mississippi River in Illinois ($10). We
had a large totally private site but Susie had to wash mulberries off our table. An unbelievable number of birds serenaded us the entire time. Just before sunset, we drove up to the several lockouts above the River for dramatic views of the Mighty Mississippi. 
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